The capital, 450-year-old Asuncion ("Mother of Cities") merits a visit of unhurried nights - that way, you'll have time to sit in the main square and people-watch. The shopping in this grand city of 729,000 is the finest the country offers, and the cathedral and archaeological museum are both highlights. The governmental architecture is interesting; don't miss the Congressional Palace, Customs House and Government Palace (in the style of the Louvre). For an unofficial tour of the city, ride one of the turn-of-the-century trolleys to the end of the line and back -- you'll learn a lot more about how the people live than you would on one of the more official tours. There are some enjoyable parks, and the national cemetery is a local oddity: Its tombs, in a assortment of architectural styles, are laid out like a miniature city. Be sure also to take a cruise on the Paraguay River; this scenic three-hour trip is really relaxing.