In Chile's arid Norte Grande, only one river in 700 miles of coastline makes it to the sea. Many towns have never experienced rainfall and depend on "Fogcatchers" to collect the morning dew for drinking water. This is the region of Chile's vast, water-poor but mineral-rich Atacama Desert, where massive geological formations from the beginning of time dominate a starkly beautiful landscape. In Antofagasta's intriguing La Portada market-place, barter with descendants of the Incas for finely woven alpaca serapes, jewelry in the Inca style and hand-carved nose flutes.